Let me make it clear right at the start: I am not an ink technologist or even
a chemist. I am writing this article from the printer's viewpoint. In order
to get satisfactory results with your pad-printing inks, you must have some
basic information about selecting, mixing, and using them. Having read this
article, you will know more about pad-printing inks than most ink reps. You
will finally understand why they behave and why sometimes they appear to misbehave
(the inks, not the reps!).
Pad-printing inks are similar in make-up to screen-printing inks, although
there are some important differences. Screen-printing inks are formulated
to resist rapid evaporation so they don't dry in the screen. Pad-printing
inks are designed to do just the opposite, since rapid solvent evaporation
during the printing process is critical. Also, pad-printing inks don't have
the advantage of being applied in very thick films like screen-printing inks
(
figure 1).
Figure 1: Pad Printing Ink-Film Characteristics
Pad printing achieves very thin ink deposits in comparison with screen printing.
Only about half of the ink in the cliché is picked up by the pad; once
deposited, the ink film is further reduced by solvent evaporation.
Pad-printing formulations are usually decorative in nature, though they can
be used to conduct or resist the flow of electricity, carry pure gold, store
magnetic messages, or simply be invisible.
Pad-printing inks consist of the following components (
figure 2):

Figure 2: Typical components of solvent-based pad printing inks
- resins
- pigments (or dyes)
- solvents
- minor additives
Resins are primarily responsible for forming the finished ink film and carrying
the colorant. Common resins include polyvinyl chloride, alkyd, polyester,
and epoxy. The nature of the resin determines what type of curing method will
be used.
Pigments, usually supplied in powder form, impart the color and opacity to
the finished print. They are incorporated into the ink by the manufacturer
through a mechanical dispersion process. Dyes are sometimes used in place
of pigments - in sublimation inks, for example, or in conventional formulas
where a special transparent shade is needed.
Solvents enable the resin-pigment mixture to be transferred to the substrate
during printing. Pad printing requires fast-evaporating solvents to enable
the ink to transfer, the advantage being that wet-on-wet multicolor printing
is possible. The exact choice and amount of solvents will depend on the resins
and pigment used in the ink. In a number of cases, the substrate also plays
a role in what solvent should be used. For most inks, no single solvent will
have all the desired properties, so a mixture of solvents is used.
The inks you buy may not have the amount or type of solvent required for this
to enable you to "fine tune" the system to suit the ambient conditions.
Even in a controlled environment, different solvents may be needed depending
on the application. For example, the drying speed of the ink may be influenced
by whether you are doing single-color work or wet-on-wet multicolor printing.
It may be necessary to use a faster-drying solvent for the first color printed,
an intermediate-speed solvent for the second, and a retarder for the last.
Minor additives include plasticizers and surfactants designed to improve the
ink's flexibility, flow, pigment stability, and other characteristics. These
additives are essential for adequate performance. Without them, the ink would
suffer such defects as brittleness, poor film strength, pigment separation,
and unsatisfactory flow.
Ink types
The ink systems currently available to the industry fall into seven different
catergories:
- solvent evaporating
- oxidation curing
- reactive (i.e., catalyst curing, two component)
- baking
- UV curable
- sublimation
- ceramic and glass
Solvent-based inks are predominant in the pad-printing industry. They dry
very rapidly through solvent evaporation alone. Care must be taken when printing
non-absorbent materials with these inks, as absorbency is required to give
best adhesion. They are available in gloss and matte finishes and perform
particularly well with many thermoplastic substrates. A simple way to tell
if a solvent based ink is suitable for a particular plastic is to rub the
solvent used to thin the ink onto the substrate. If the solvent melts the
surface of the plastic, chances are the ink will adhere very well.
In oxidation-drying inks, the resin absorbs oxygen from the atmosphere and
undergoes a polymerization process, producing a very tough, flexible, weather-resistant
ink film. They have limited uses in pad-printing applications due to their
slow drying speed, but they are excellent for printing onto metal and glass.
Two-part or reactive (catalyst curing) inks, used extensively in pad printing,
also contain resins capable of polymerization. However, the required catalyst
is either blended into the ink by the manufacturer or supplied separately
and mixed in by the printer when required. Either way, the inks have a restricted
shelf life once the catalyst is added.
Two-part inks cure very rapidly when heated. They are generally printed on
difficult substrates such as metals, some plastics, and glass, and are particularly
popular when good chemical and abrasion resistance is required. Particular
care must be taken when mixing the base ink with the catalyst. Manufacturers
specify an exact weight to be added, so you must always weigh the components
when mixing - no exceptions! Inaccurate mixing can give inconsistent adhesion
and product-resistance characteristics.
Another important factor to be aware of with two-component inks is that after
printing and prior to complete curing, the temperature of the printed ink
film must not drop below 59°F (15°C). Should this occur, the ink will
cease curing and cannot be restated. This may not be a problem if the curing
may nearly be complete. However, if curing takes place in storage over a period
of time, the ink film is vulnerable. A dry ink film is not necessarily cured.
It takes time, temperature, or combination of both to effect a complete cure.
With two-component inks, curing typically takes five days at 68°F (20°C)
or 10 min at 212°F (100°C). This information is available on the ink's
technical data sheet, which unfortunately, most users do no bother to read.
Baking inks need a certain minimum temperature and time to cure. The cure
time varies inversely with the temperature: the higher the temperature, the
shorter the drying time. The flexibility of the ink film is another factor
to consider with these inks. Ink films that must retain their flexibility
require lower temperatures, for a higher temperature can cause brittleness.
Sublimation inks involve a special process where a solid turns into a gas
when heated. When these inks are applied to an appropriate surface and then
heated to the specified temperature (approximately 392°F or 200°C), dyes in
the ink sublime, the surface of the material becomes porous, and the dyes
pass into the material. This actually changes the color of the base material.
Once the material has cooled, the ink is sealed into the surface. Pad printing
is a suitable process for sublimation since the ink deposit must be kept to
a minimum to prevent color bleeding. Applications include keyboards and other
areas where abrasion resistance is critical. Care must be taken when selecting
colors, as certain inks are sensitive to UV light and fade very quickly. The
range of colors is very limited, and matching Pantone colors is almost impossible.
Another limitation is that the substrate color must be lighter than that of
the ink.
Ceramic and gas thermoplastic inks are used quite successfully in the pad-printing
industry. These inks are similar to the ones used in screen printing in that
at ambient temperatures, the ink is solid (like candle wax). It becomes fluid
when raised to 176°F (80°C), which is accomplished in the ink reservoir and
cliché (
Figure 3).

Figure 3: Pad printing with thermoplastic inks
Thermoplastic inks used for glass and ceramic printing are solid in ambient
conditions and must be heated to become liquid. Presses used for these applications
have heated clichés and ink reservoirs.
Unlike conventional pad-printing inks, pad wetting doesn't occur due to solvent
evaporation, but by the cooling effect of the pad when it comes into contact
with the ink in the etching of the cliché. Similarly, the ink transfers from
the pad to the substrate because the outer ink surface becomes tacky when
exposed to the air, making it tackier than the ink on the surface of the pad.
The cooling effect of the glass or ceramic substrate enable a complete transfer.
This process allows fairly heavy deposits of ink to be printed because the
etch depths of the cliché are greater - 30 to 50 microns. Once printed, the
ink must be fired onto the surface at approximately 1075°F (580°C)
for glass and 2130°F (1200°C) for ceramic. These inks are dishwasher
safe, but if that isn't a requirement, baking inks and reactive systems are
very effective for printing onto glass and ceramics.
UV-curable inks widely used in the screen-printing industry, offering faster
curing speeds, ease of printing, and fewer environmental problems than solvent-based
systems. In certain applications, a pad printing ink will consist of a UV
formulation with solvent added to it to enable the ink to transfer conventionally.
The hard coats used to protect products such as keyboards from abrasion are
an example. Pigmented UV pad-printing inks for decorative applications have
been available on a limited basis, but questions about the technology remain.
Most of the major ink suppliers are working to develop a UV ink suitable for
the pad-printing process. I am aware of at least four that are currently testing
products in the field. Machinery manufacturers are working with ink manufacturers,
and I've been told of equipment that reportedly has print speeds up to 4000
iph using these inks. The initial target market is the compact-disc industry.
Pad printing's use on CDs has been declining in recent years, but this development
could bring new life.
Precise details regarding ink technology and application are still somewhat
sketchy. Since UV inks contain no solvents, they can't rely on solvent evaporation
in the printing process as ordinary inks do. The manufacturers achieve the
tackiness necessary for pad ink rheology. Although the cliché etching is about
20 microns, only a percentage of the ink - approximately 6 microns - sticks
to the pad. However, because the inks contain no evaporative liquids, the
cured ink film is much closer to the wet ink film than with conventional inks.
The thickness of the ink film must be carefully controlled or else curing
will be very difficult.
This is still in the experimental stage and the manufacturers involved specify
different pad materials, hardnesses, and cliché etch depths. The range of
printable substrates will likely be less extensive than solvent-based inks,
and ink opacity will be compromised. In some applications, a white background
may be necessary to give the required color intensity. Also, printing wet
on wet would not be possible, so intermediate drying would be required.
For a pad printer, the big advantage of UV technology is that small changes
in ambient conditions won't affect it, giving much greater stability to the
process. It will likely be most popular in four-color work where thin films
of transparent ink are necessary for satisfactory results. More details will
be available in the near future.
Ink selection - Substrate concerns
All manufacturers provide technical data sheets that state what substrates
can be printed with that ink. The sheets also specify any special requirements
such as pre- and post-treatments. But to select the correct ink, you must
be aware of a wide range of conditions and requirements. A customer's request
to "print a blue ink on this plastic component" poses a whole range of questions
that must be answered to fulfill the application satisfactorily.

Figure 4: Surface wetting
If the surface tension of an ink is greater than the surface energy of the
substrate, the ink will bead up rather than flow properly. To make such a
substrate wetable, and enable ink adhesion, substrate pretreatment is necessary.
In order for an ink to adhere to a substrate, it must be capable of wetting
the material. If this is to occur, the surface tension of the ink must be
lower than the surface energy of the substrate (Figure 4).
Contamination in the form of oil, grease silicones, condensation, etc.,
will inhibit or stop ink from wetting the surface. Cleanliness is essential.
I can't overstate the need to accurately identify the substrate, as small
changes in the chemical composition can radically affect the surface of the
material. The most difficult situation is where surface conditions vary, either
at different points on the substrate or throughout a production run. Plastics
that are filled (e.g., glass-filled nylon, talc-filled polypropylene) of the
filler rather than those of the plastic will change due to slip-additive migration.
This is particularly so in applications where heat is applied to a molded
component. Ink that appeared to have adequate adhesion can simply fall off
when slip additives migrate to the surface.
Substrate pretreatment
The term polyolefins refers to a wide range of plastics. Some, such as polystyrene
and vinyl, are very suitable for printing. Others, such as polyethylene and
polypropylene, can't be printed in their natural state. Polyethylene and polypropylene
have a surface energy of 30 dynes/cm². For good printability. The surface
must be treated in one of four ways.
Liquid printers are probably the least favorite option in the industry. They
are limited in the range of plastics that can be successfully treated, and
they are inconvenient to apply. Spraying or dipping, not wiping, are the preferred
methods. Care must be taken not to inhale the vapors or allow the fluid to
come in contact with the skin. Experimentation is necessary, but even then,
changes in substrate batches can alter the primer's effectiveness.
Corona treatment uses a high-voltage discharge to change the surface energy
of the substrate. Materials are treated in line using two electrodes - one
over the substrate and one under. The electrodes generate a plasma that ionizes
the substrate, altering its surface tension. The distance between the electrodes
is critical and should remain constant.
Corona discharge treats films most successfully because the distance between
the electrodes is small. Larger decorators may have such equipment in house
or they may buy corona-treated films from their vendors. Sophisticated systems
are available for corona treating three-dimensional objects very effectively.
These are used where high volumes can justify the capital costs. The process
will not work if there is any break in the surface being treated because the
discharge will find the path of least resistance and short directly through
the hole. As an alternative, three-dimensional components can be bulk treated
in a chamber that is charged with an electrical plasma. This is a very effective
method and will treat every surface of a molding no matter what the shape.
Decorators can only justify these methods in house for a very high number
of parts, however, because the capital expense is high.
Flame treating is the most widely used method of pretreatment. Like corona
treatment, it may be done in house or by the substrate manufacturer. Flexible
and reliable if carefully controlled, flame treating enables uneven and curved
surfaces to be treated. This process uses a mixture of air and gas such as
butane, propane, methane, etc. For the flame to be effective, it must be oxidizing
(that is, blue).
Correct flame control is very important. A basic flamer will do simple work,
but for regular use and long production runs, specially designed flame-control
systems are recommended. These are fitted with gas- and air-control valves
to compensate for pressure Fluctuations, ensuring that the mixture is always
optimum. Flame-nozzle design is important usually featuring single or double
rows of ribbon burners that give a more stable flame shape and characteristic.
"Flame throwers" are inefficient and unreliable. Flame control and position
of the item in the flame are critical, so setting up the flamer is very important
(Figure 5).

Figure 5: Flame treatment
In flame treating, flame shape is critical for the pretreatment to be effective.
Over-flaming will damage the surface of the substrate, while under-flaming
will cause the ink not to stick.
Cold-gas plasma treatment is emerging as an efficient way to treat polymers,
dramatically improving their surface properties for high-performance printing.
In some cases, plasma treatment provides the only acceptable solution to these
common surface treatment problems. The only disadvantage is the expense of
the equipment, although some companies offer contract plasma treating.
Testing for correct pretreatment to ensure that a substrate has been properly
pretreated, you must establish that the surface energy has changed. Kits are
available that allow you to test the surface energy of the substrate by applying
liquids with known dyne levels and watching the reaction (
Figure 6).

Figure 6: Testing surface
Dyne kits allow you to determine the surface energy of a substrate by applying
fluids with known dyne levels onto it and watching the reaction. If the surface
energy of the substrate is higher than the surface tension of the testing
fluid, it will flow evenly rather than break up into globules.
If the mixture spread evenly across the surface, then the surface energy of
the substrate is equal or higher than the surface tension of the testing fluid.
If the liquid beads up and forms into globules, however, then the substrate
has a lower surface energy. These tests are essential for establishing that
a material can be printed. They work no matter what form of pretreatment has
been used.
Dyne-testing kits normally consist of six to eight fluids with surface tensions
ranging from 28-56 dynes/cm². The lids must be firmly replaced after use,
and gloves and goggles should be worn to prevent contact with the skin and
eyes. Test kits are also available in felt-tip pen form, which are adequate
for ensuring that the substrate has a certain minimum dyne level.
Having a dyne-testing kit is imperative for any pad-printing shop. In lieu
of one, a few simple rule-of- thumb tests can be tried. First, you can simply
hold the object to be printed under running water and then remove it. If the
substrate has been properly treated, the water will seem to wet evenly, then
de-wet slowly. On an untreated surface, the water will bead up. Another, less
reliable test is to mark the substrate with a ball-point pen. Stick a strip
of Scotch tape on the pen mark and pull it off. If the substrate is correctly
pretreated, most of the ink will adhere to the plastic instead of the tape.
This test is far from ideal and should be used only as a last resort.
Other factors affecting adhesion
Surface pretreatment is a decisive factor when printing onto polyethylene
and polypropylene. But other factors affecting adhesion, such as slip-additive
migration, can't be detected from a dyne test. You could get favorable results
in a dyne test and still suffer ink-adhesion failure. Also, two surfaces with
the same treatment levels may show different ink-adhesion characteristics.
You need to be aware of these possibilities when troubleshooting a printing
difficulty.
If you are printing a polyolefin and pretreating it isn't an option, special
inks are available that don't require pretreatment. These single-part inks
require efficient post-treatment in the form of either IR, forced-air, flame,
or UV drying that enhances the final characteristic of the relevant ink system.
Without this post-treatment, the highly stable structure of the material makes
satisfactory adhesion impossible.
Properties of cured ink
The substrate alone isn't enough information to determine what ink to use.
You must know what is required of the cured ink film by the customer.
Color matching is a topic for another article, but a few basic issues should
be mentioned. The starting point is either a sample of the color applied to
the surface to be printed and/or a reference to a standard color specification,
such as PMS , DIN, etc. Remember that the ink film in pad printing is very
thin, and you often must print on a colored background that will affect the
final color of the ink. Always check the printed color under different lighting
conditions. Stability of color under UV light is very important. You'll find
information on your technical data sheets regarding the properties of the
pigments.
Adhesion and abrasion resistance: Cross-hatch tests, rub
tests, tabor-wheel abrasion tests, etc., should all be specified before you
select an ink. The classical comment "it mustn't scratch off" is not acceptable.
The most recognized adhesion test is to cut a cross hatch through the cured
ink in 4-mm squares (
Figure 7).

Figure 7: Testing Abrasion Resistance
The familiar cross-hatch test, shown here on a cylindrical substrate, is the
most common adhesion test in pad printing.
You then apply Scotch tape and remove it with a sharp pull at an acute angle
to the surface. The amount of the ink remaining determines the level of adhesion.
Resistance to chemical attack: A printed part may need to
withstand the effects of oils, solvents, acids, alkalis, or plain water. Probably
one of the most arduous environments is a dishwasher, where there is a mixture
of detergent, alkali, and hot water. I am not aware of any non-ceramic ink
systems that will withstand dishwashing for extended periods. Another surprisingly
aggressive material is melted snow. This contains a whole cocktail of chemicals
that are collected as the clouds from and the snow falls through the atmosphere.
Always check what your client needs the printed ink film to withstand before
you start printing. Read the technical data sheet provided by your ink supplier.
If in doubt, run tests with the ink and provide printed samples for your client
to approve. If necessary, ask your ink supplier to run trials.
Weathering again: The technical data sheet will give you
information on this subject. If weathering characteristics are critical, it
is possible to carry out accelerated tests on the printed substrate. Either
an ink supplier or an independent lab can conduct tests for you if you don't
have access to the equipment.
Special requirements: Food and toy applications are a good
example, both involving ink that may be ingested. The toxicity level of pigments
and resins used in such inks is very carefully controlled. Heavy metals such
as cadmium are totally unacceptable, and the regulations are constantly becoming
stricter, so seek advice from your ink supplier if you aren't absolutely certain.
Post-production processes
Any post-printing steps the part must go through could affect the ink performance.
In screen printing, die-cutting and thermo-forming can both be problematic
with certain inks. In pad printing, clear coating is a process to watch. The
underlying ink must be fully cured and impervious to any solvents in the clear
coat. The clear coat won't stick to under-cured ink, and it may cause the
ink to bleed if the solvents aren't compatible.
If adhesion difficulties arise, it's important to check all of the following
points:
- Was a mold release used in manufacturing the part?
- Were any plasticizers used by the molder?
- Has the molder changed the percentage of filler?
- Is the molder using recycled material?
- Is any grease or oil on the surface?
- Is the press operator wiping the image area of the substrate with a
hand or finger and leaving greasy marks?
- Have the parts been stored at a low temperature and then brought into
a higher-temperature environment? (This will cause unseen condensation
on the surface.)
- Has the material in the part been changed without your knowledge?
- Are you using the correct ink?
- Has it been weighed out? Were additives like hardeners added in the
proper ratios?
- Has the right thinner been used?
- Has anything been added by mistake (mineral spirits, water, etc.)?
- Was the ink well stirred before being mixed?
- Has the ink's shelf life expired?
- Has the ink been left in the press too long?
- Should you be pre- or post-treating?
- Does the substrate have an adequate dyne level for printing?
Putting these guidelines into practice
If you've been reading this series of articles, you know how important it
is to control the balance of solvent in the ink so they evaporate properly.
Ink manufacturers spend vast amounts of time and money developing and formulating
inks to satisfy this criterion. Then what do some printers do? Pour the ink
from a can into the ink reservoir without checking the label. They squirt
in some solvent, and then try to print. When the ink doesn't transfer or stick,
who is blamed? The ink manufacturer, of course.
Really, there is a better way. Imagine you're receiving a new order. You need
some information about the job before you even begin thinking about which
ink to use. This information should be on the work order and it might look
something like this:
Substrate
- Base material: 15% glass-filled Nylon 66
- Color: Black
- Finish: Gloss
Ink requirements
- Color: PMS orange 021C
- Finish: Gloss
Test requirements
- Cross hatch 0.1-in. (0.25-cm) grid. Scotch tape applied, less than 10%
removed.
- Resistant to ten rubs of a 1-in square (0.25 cm) felt pad soaked in
mineral spirits, with a force of 2 lbs applied.
These factors would indicate the need to use a reactive-curing two component
ink with some form of forced-air drying. Such an ink would give the necessary
adhesion and withstand the rub tests. It will also be necessary to apply several
prints, probably three, to get sufficient density of the bright orange ink
on the black substrate. The ink will have a gloss finish because the substrate
has one. Forced-air drying will enhance the cure of the ink film and prevent
dust from collecting on the surface before it dries.
Before the job goes to production, tests are conducted to check the ink/substrate
combination. The trials not only establish that the printing and drying recommendations
work, but also the mix of solvents needed in the ink to give optimum printing
performance.
Now, on to production. The operator is given the production-control card,
which details all the setup and ink instructions. He gathers up the necessary
materials and put on any protective clothing required (goggles, gloves, and
an apron). He reads the labels on the ink, hardener, and solvents to double-check
the production control card. He also checks the date to ensure that nothing
has passed the shelf life.
He opens the ink can and stirs the contents vigorously. He also opens and
stirs the hardener. He places a suitable container on the scales and puts
the stated amount of ink in. He then adds the hardener to the correct ratio
- by weight - and stirs it in. Then adds the mix of solvents, carefully stirring
to ensure complete dispersion in the mix. (At this stage, some shops might
use a viscometer to check the viscosity. If your mixtures are correct by weight,
the viscosity will be acceptable in any case.)
The operator then pours the specified amount of ink into the ink reservoir.
He keeps the remainder in a closed container for use throughout the run. He
makes the other press settings as specified by the production control card.
Surprise, surprise: The first print is acceptable. Assuming the press operator
maintains the solvent balance during the day by adding measured amounts of
solvent at specified intervals, the press will run right on through.
Depending on the ink system and the ambient temperatures, the ink will have
to be completely replaced with a new batch in 8-10 hr. This is because a two-component
ink will begin curing in the ink reservoir and its printing characteristics
will change. In very high ambient temperatures, it may be necessary to change
the ink more often. It's very important to estimate a two-component ink carefully,
since anything not used that day should be disposed of correctly and is expensive
to waste. If the job had called for a single-component ink (no catalyst),
the ink wouldn't cure in the reservoir and could be used on press for a much
longer period. I would still recommend changing it after 48 hr, as contaminants
can build up that will alter the ink's properties. Oxidation-curing inks may
also undergo chemical changes.
By the way, two-component inks are not recommended for use in sealed ink cups,
as they gel if they are not agitated and will cure completely if left in the
cup for extended periods. Care must also be taken when using reactive ink
on screened clichés. Any trace of ink left in the etched portion of
the cliché overnight will cure and be impossible to remove the next
day. This applies to a greater or lesser extent with any part of the machine
or jigging.
Conclusion
In pad printing, the ink may be the most important element of the process,
yet it is constantly abused. Always carry out tests on the substrate before
going into production. Materials do change and problems can occur. Take a
systematic approach to choosing, testing, preparing, and using your inks,
and you'll see a world of improvement in your pad-printing operation.
Rules of Using Ink
- Read the technical data sheets.
- Read and understand the Health and Safety Data Sheet.
- Always wear protective clothing, gloves, and goggles when mixing inks.
- Ensure that ventilation is adequate at all times.
- Stir ink and hardeners before use.
- Use only specified solvents.
- Weigh the ink, solvent, hardener, components, and mixture.
- Do not use inks or hardeners that are past their shelf life.
- Seal partly used cans of ink. Their shelf life is reduced once opened.
- Keep unused mixed ink in a closed container.
- Do not used mixed two-component ink after pot life is expired.
- Do not use two-component inks in closed-cup printing system.
- If single-component ink is used, continuously change every two days.
- Never Mix ink types to achieve a color match.
- If ink splashes onto your skin, wipe off excess with tissue or cloth
and wash with soap and water or proper hand cleaner.
- Never use thinners to remove ink from skin.
- If ink or solvents enter your eye, irrigate with water for 15 min and
seek medical advice immediately.
- In case of swallowing, do not induce vomiting. Seek medical advice immediately.
- In both the above cases, take the Health and Safety Data Sheet and the
Technical Data Sheet to the medical authority.
About the Author
Peter Kiddell has been in the pad printing industry for more than 20 years
and currently works as a pad and screen printing consultant. His company,
Product Decoration Services, develops training packages to help companies
fine tune their pad printing process. He or his partner, Carol Burnside, may
be contacted at:
Product Decoration Services
Innovation Way
Barnsley s75 1JL
South Yorkshire
England
Tel: +44(0)1226 249590
Fax: +44(0)1226 294797
Email:
PDS_Consulting@compuserve.com